Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
