Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.
The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.
“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.
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